16 December, 2008
On Monday morning my partner and I woke to the rumbling of thunder and flashes of brilliant lightening illuminating the dark pre-dawn sky. As the rain beat against the window I wondered how much fun the Billy Tea Bush Safari Chillagoe Caves and Outback day tour would be in this weather. We were soon to find out…
We were picked up by Andrew, our tour guide, in a custom built four wheel drive vehicle. The Billy Tea Bush Safari vehicles are easily recognisable, and often attract attention from passer-bys. Spacious, comfortable and fully air-conditioned, my partner and took our seats and settled in for the full day Australian outback adventure.
After Andrew collected our fellow travellers, we began heading out of Cairns and up the Kuranda Range. The Kuranda Range is winding and narrow, meandering through dense tropical rainforest. My partner and I have embarked on this journey many times before, but it still manages to enchant and enthral, the rich emerald greens of the forest vibrant with exotic birds, and we even managed to catch glimpses of the iconic Skyrail Rainforest Gondola’s as they soared overhead making their way to the rainforest village of Kuranda.
As we reached the top of the Kuranda Range the dark thunder clouds of the morning dissipated into clear blue skies, and the rich rainforest began to merge into drier Eucalypt forest. The landscape became flat and expansive and we began spotting native Australian wildlife – a plethora of forest birds and even the occasional kangaroo and wallaby. Andrew took us off the main highway just past the Kuranda turnoff, and here the real 4WD adventure began.
Billy Tea Bush Safaris’ Chillagoe Caves day tour twists and turns through the Australian Outback. We followed narrow dirt tracks along the backs of farming properties, some cattle farms but mostly mango, banana, paw paw, lychee, longan and coffee farms. Andrew explains how some of our indigenous fruits and vegetables were used medicinally by Aboriginals, a unique and insightful glimpse into a proud and ancient culture. Colonial history is also rich and abundant, and throughout the day we followed in the tracks of trail blazers such as Edmund Kennedy and the famous Cobb and Co Coach Company.
After a thoroughly enjoyable four wheel drive adventure throughout the Eucalypt forests and agricultural land of the Cairns Highlands, we wound our way back to the main highway, and toward our first stop for the day – the Mareeba Tropical Savannah and Wetland Reserve. 
The Mareeba Wetlands is an area of immense natural beauty, a stunning oasis amidst 5,000 acres of vast Australian Savannah land. The Mareeba Wetlands is an area of great environmental significance, a conservation park and animal sanctuary operated by the Wildlife Conservancy of Tropical North Queensland. The Mareeba Wetlands is home to a variety of threatened, rare and endangered species, an essential natural habitat for the survival of the Gouldian Finch, Buff-breasted Button-quail, Black Throated Finch, and Brown Treecreeper.
The Mareeba Wetlands visitor centre is a gorgeous timber structure overlooking Clancy’s Lagoon, just one of the 12 inter-connected lagoons, creeks and channels that wind through this wildlife sanctuary. This enchanting place seems somewhat otherworldly; vibrant green lily pads floating atop the glassy waters of the lagoon, exotic birds preforming intriguing rituals and the incessant flitter and flutter of butterflies. We enjoyed morning tea as we overlooked the sweeping wetland vistas, a tranquil and serene ambiance nestled amongst the pristine Australian wilderness.
After a delicious morning tea of home-baked cookies and freshly plunged tea and coffee we made our way to the Mareeba Wetlands small electric boat and embarked on a 45 minute cruise around the lagoon. The water was still and clear, and as I looked over the edge of the boat I glimpsed schools of fish darting purposefully through the water – their destination unknown. One of the other day trippers spotted a giant Barramundi, and I kept my eyes keenly peeled for the rest of the cruise in hopes that I would spot one as well!
Wildlife is abundant on this calm water cruise, and the birdlife is both exotic and prolific. This is an absolute ‘must do’ experience for the ornithologists amongst us, and the quiet electric boat allows us an ‘up-close-and-personal’ with many of the birds. One of the three resident freshwater crocodiles even made an appearance on our cruise, a harmless inhabitant of Clancy’s Lagoon. The cruise offers a sensational insight into the fragile eco-system of the wetlands, and reinforces our need to protect and nurture these areas of ecological significance. After the cruise it’s all aboard Billy Teas four wheel drive vehicle for the next leg of our outback adventure…
Andrew expertly guided Billy Tea’s 4WD through narrow dirt roads complete with fast flowing river crossings, through private cattle properties and back out to the main highway. Due to our recent heavy rainfall, the typically dry and arid country was vividly green and abundant. Cows with calves were lazily enjoying the rich wild grass, rather indifferent to our passing. More wildlife was spotted including lizards, kangaroos, birds and even ostriches.
Back onto sealed roads we found ourselves travelling along the Wheelbarrow Way toward our ultimate destination of Chillagoe Caves, and along the way passed through the quaint country townships of Mutchilba and Piemonte. The Wheelbarrow Way was named in honour of Colonial Settlers, who, during the mining boom of the 1880’s walked with tool laden wheelbarrows toward Chillagoe to gain employment.
We stopped for a short break at Dimbulah, a quaint agricultural township that features an old-world feel. Spotted throughout the small country town are vibrant yellow wattle trees, an interesting contrast against the rich red Savannah land of the encompassing landscape. We enjoyed a cold drink in the shade of a lazy wattle tree, and the international day trippers were enthralled by the native Australian bees that call the wattle trees home.
Lappa Junction Hotel was our next stop for the day, an iconic Australian ‘Pub with no Beer’. Lappa Junction Hotel has a vast and interesting Colonial history, and is now is a museum for Australian relics of the past. Lappa Junction Hotel was built in 1901, and you can’t help but imagine what it would have been like when frequented by Colonial settlers. This is an Australian outback adventure like no other, and if you’re not enthralled by the relics of a by-gone era, simply wander around the back of the pub and your greeted by gorgeous free-roaming horses and a Cattle Dog I nick-named ‘Bluey’.
Back in Billy Tea’s four wheel drive again, we began making our way to Chillagoe. The landscape between Lappa Junction and Chillagoe varied dramatically, and fascinating granite formations began to emerge on the landscape, framed at all times by the vast mountain ranges in the distance. The vast Savannah land seemed drier, and the termite mounds taller. Chillagoe sat in the centre of this expansive land, a small oasis in the centre of the Australian Outback.
Through the small township we drove, receiving the occasional wave from locals and passer-bys. Our first stop was the Chillagoe Smelters, the remnants of a by-gone mining era. Operating from 1901 to 1943, the Chillagoe Smelters were the hub of copper, lead, silver and gold mining. In its heyday the Chillagoe Smelters had up to 1,000 employees. The tall smelter chimneys continue to stand tall and proud, and other artefacts from this distant era remain. Chillagoe Smelters are now part of National Parks and Wildlife, widely recognized as a place of historic colonial significance. 
My partner and I were starting to feel somewhat peckish, and luckily enough our next stop was The Post Office Hotel in Chillagoe for lunch. We felt immediately at home and at ease at the Post Office Hotel, an iconic Australian tavern with a large outdoor beer garden. Being vegetarian, I though lunch might be a little problematic, however the chef at the Post Office Hotel made me the most sumptuous salad and lentil burger. My partner, and the rest of the tour group, enjoyed some of the largest beef burgers I have ever seen! I was told the beef is locally grown, and my partner assured me it was absolutely delicious.
There is nothing quite like a cold beer on a hot day, and my partner Terry enjoyed a pint while relaxing under the shade. All too soon we had to say our farewells to the friendly staff at the Post Office Hotel, however as soon as we were back in the air-conditioned comfort of Billy Teas four wheel drive the anticipation began to grow for what lay ahead – we were heading for our Chillagoe Caves adventure.
The Chillagoe Caves are part of Chillagoe National Park, and as such a National Parks and Wildlife Ranger met us at the caves entrance, ready to expertly guide us through the astonishing labyrinths of the ancient limestone caves. The Ranger provided us all with personal torches, and as I strapped the battery pack to my waist and draped the torch light over my shoulder I felt like a cave enthusiast from way back!
Chillagoe Caves are nestled amongst dry topical woodland, and the jagged limestone cave formations are breathtaking. As we entered the deep depths of the cave the temperature plummeted immediately, cool relief from the midday heat. We were exploring the Royal Arch Cave, only one amongst 600 caves that are spotted throughout the area. The first cave chamber was enormous, cool limestone interiors which featured ancient stalactites and stalagmites. Tiny bats were roosting in the roof of the cave, and halfway during the rangers commentary they took flight, an amazing display of their echo-location as they effortlessly soared above our heads throughout the dark cave.
We moved beyond this initial chamber, through narrow winding walkways until we arrived at Picnic Chamber, a gorgeous open-air section of the cave that has sunlight streaming through an open gap in the roof. The warmth and light is well received after the murky depths of the caves, and we sat and enjoy the sensational surrounds. The surrounding rock formations were enthralling, and we could all see different shapes and pictures amongst the rocks. One of the day trippers spotter a formation that resembled an elephant, another said it looked more like a skull. My partner saw a candle complete with flame and hot wax, however I was more content just to sit and marvel at the millions of years it took for nature to create this amazing natural wonder.
We moved back into the deep dark depths of the cave until we reached the final chamber we would visit for the day – the Cathedral Chamber. A quiet hush came over the tour group as we appreciated the absolute magnificence of this cavernous room, and at each end pulpit formations adorned the walls of the cave overhead, providing the chamber with the name Cathedral. There seemed to be a spiritual significance to this majestic rock formation, and we admired the gorgeous limestone caves from its deep dark heart, appreciating Mother Nature at her very finest.
As we moved out of the cave the bright sunshine greeted us, and I spotted wallabies bounding through nearby scrub land. Back in Billy Teas four wheel drive vehicle we departed the Chillagoe Cave, ready for our next destination – Skybury - The Australian Coffee Centre. The drive to Skybury is around 1 ½ hours long, perfect for a short nap, or to simply gaze out the window at the passing scenery.
As we made our way to Skybury deep dark rain clouds swept over the baby blue sky, and flashes of lightening struck the mountain ranges on the distant horizon. The weather that threatened to ruin our day in the morning was back…and it was fantastic! The dark clouds promising rain burst, and rainwater thrashed the vehicle, an exhilarating sound as we hurtled down the highway at 100 km. Just as quickly as the rain started, it stopped, just in time for us to hop out of the car and down the cobbled path to the Australian Coffee Centre at Skybury.
My partner and I had been to Skybury previously, so while the rest of the tour group watched a short documentary movie on this unique coffee plantation, my partner and I, along with tour guide Andrew, sat on the expansive outdoor deck with coffees, enjoying the spectacular rural countryside and each others company. Rainwater glistened off the rural grasses and leaves of the Eucalypt forest, reflecting a myriad of shades of greens, and beautiful forest birds were shaking the rainwater from their feathers.
Andrew was an interesting and insightful character, an abundant source of local information. He was well versed in the best camping spots, hiking trails and water holes; information he was more than happy to share. His enthusiasm for the Australian Outback was somewhat contagious, and I believe in a former life he must have been an Australian ‘bushman’.
After enjoying the wonderful scenery and delicious coffee it was all-aboard the Billy Tea four wheel drive again…next stop Cairns. The drive home was fun and friendly, we chatted amongst ourselves, Andrew shared some more bush remedies and the occasional joke, and before we knew it we had descended the Kuranda Range and were once again in Cairns. What a spectacular Outback adventure, one which created memories to treasure forever!
Many thanks to Andrew and the team at Billy Tea for a sensational day roaming the vast Australian Outback…
Amy Jennings
Editorial Writer
The Tour Specialists
